“The water’s clean and cold because of the Humboldt current, and there are a lot of nutrients. They’re a little milder than others you find on the West Coast.” The runaway hits of the debut menu are a double-cut pork chop brined in molasses, maple, ginger, and spices, cooked over red oak; a black garlic-glazed rib eye; a hoe cake that’s the pinnacle of that cornbread life; and Lyng’s pies, which she sends down the hill from George’s daily.

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