Mexico Archives - San Diego Magazine https://staging.sandiegomagazine.com/tag/mexico/ Mon, 06 May 2024 19:32:01 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://staging.sandiegomagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/cropped-SDM_favicon-32x32.png Mexico Archives - San Diego Magazine https://staging.sandiegomagazine.com/tag/mexico/ 32 32 What to See at the WDC’s 2024 World Design Festival https://staging.sandiegomagazine.com/things-to-do/world-design-festival-wdc-2024/ Tue, 30 Apr 2024 21:49:11 +0000 https://sandiegomagazine.com/?p=76805 Check out the all the events and exhibits showcasing transborder artists and designers shaping the future of the city

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The long-awaited World Design Capital (WDC) event in San Diego and Tijuana is finally here. Taking place Wednesday through Sunday, May 1-5, the two cities will host a series of festivals, events and exhibits showcasing design.

The World Design Festival is run by Tijuana Design Week and invites guests from both border cities, along with international visitors to experience Tijuana design through lectures, exhibitions, public design workshops and design studio open houses. According to event organizers, the event “encompasses all dimensions of time to open a space for reflection on the history, identity and future of the city, the binational region and the global environment.” Registration is free for events through the website.

We highlighted some of the event’s best offerings below, but be sure to check out their full list of activities here.

World Design Festival's 2024 Tijuana Design Week featuring Fernanda Uribe's Bosque art exhibit
Courtesy of Tijuana Design Week

2024 World Design Festival Events – Day 1

Exhibición BOSQUE

This installation, BOSQUE (FOREST), created by Fernanda Uribe, is more than just an enchanted garden. It’s meant to be an immersive design experience where sculpture and functional design blend with handmade miniature ceramic sculptures of imaginary plants, flowers, fungi, and insects.

Date: Wednesday, May 1
Time: 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Location: Observatorio | Av Constitución 1337, Zona Centro, 22000 Tijuana

Ballet adultas y adultos abierto a la comunidad

This ballet workshop for adults gives anyone the chance to experience ballet as a tool for bodily expression.

Date: Wednesday, May 1
Time: 6:30 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Location: Conservatorio de Danza México | 11 y o Plutarco Elías Calles 9137, Zonaeste, 22000 Tijuana

World Design Festival's 2024 Tijuana Design Week featuring Vero Glezqui's art exhibit "Temporalities of a Sanctuary"

2024 World Design Festival Events – Day 2

Taller de diseño: Jornadas Comunidades de Reciclaje

This event is part of the “Pollution Prevention at Alamar Creek” initiative, and gives attendees the chance to explore waste management solutions. The suggestions collected at the end will inform future community strategies.

Date: Thursday, May 2
Time: 9:00 a.m. to 11:00 a.m.
Location: CETYS Universidad | Av. Cetys Universidad.4, El Lago, 22217 Tijuana

Taller Compa Laboratorio de narrativa ciudadana a través de la tipografía

This Citizen Narrative Laboratory comes from TMX – Typography Mexico. It was developed in Mexicali and Calexico in 2023 by Héctor Ruíz, a student from Mexicali at the MFA Design for Social Innovation SVA. The exhibition showcases languages and transborder identities.

Date: Thursday, May 2
Time: 11:00 AM to 2:00 PM
Location: Escuela libre de Arquitectura | C. Coahuila 8206-int. 203, Zona Nte., 22000 Tijuana

No Cuerpo and the creation of a digital archive on design, art, and culture in the SDTJ border region

This event showcases No Cuerpo, a digital platform focused on creating art, entrepreneurship, and social reality content that’s displayed as design, audiovisual, and written formats. The platform shows off local talent and creates connections.

Date: Thursday, May 2
Time: 4:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Location: Observatorio | Av Constitución 1337, Zona Centro, 22000 Tijuana

Vero Glezqui: Temporalidades de un santuario

Temporalities of a Sanctuary” is all about nature from different angles—like looking at it through a cosmic lens. You’ll see paintings, drawings, and more that blend the real world with the abstract.

Date: Thursday, May 2
Time: 5:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.
Location: Casa de la Cultura | Av. París y, C. Lisboa 5, Centro, 22054 Tijuana

FADINGS x Spel Uno

Step into the world of “FADINGS” and see how art can bridge the gap between the digital and the physical. It’s like a journey through murals, paintings, and even furniture, all blending together seamlessly.

Date: Thursday, May 2
Time: 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Location: Julep Café | Av. Mutualismo 1233, Zona Centro, 22055 Tijuana

Pop-up: El humano y sus cuevas: interpretaciones sobre el humano transitando en el tiempo

This experience explores the concept of migration through art. It’s meant to be a blend of different creative minds sharing their ideas, just like how people used to share along the coast before borders were a thing.

Date: Thursday, May 2
Time: 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Location: Restaurante Bhumi | Gobernador Ibarra 9510, Davila, 22040 Tijuana

World Design Festival's 2024 Tijuana Design Week featuring an art exhibit for Krzysztof Wodiczko
Courtesy of Krzysztof Wodiczko

2024 World Design Festival Events – Day 3

Andrea Carrillo / CreativeMornings Tijuana

Kick off the morning with some inspiration. CreativeMornings Tijuana, features Andrea Carrillo Iglesias, an artist with a knack for design. Get ready to learn how design shapes our world.

Date: Friday, May 3
Time: 8:30 a.m. to 10:00 a.m.
Location: Enigma Creative | Av. Juan Sarabia 208-Local 2, Zona Centro, 22000 Tijuana

Krzysztof Wodiczko (Guide Visit)

Meet Krzysztof Wodiczko, a master of large-scale projections on buildings, whose work has focused on marginalized and estranged city residents. His work brings communities together and gives a voice to those often unheard. 

Date: Friday, May 3
Time: 11:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.
Location: CECUT Sala de video | P.º de los Héroes 9350, Zona Urbana Rio Tijuana

Borderless Experiences: The Lecture

This event explores the future of design in a digital world. Scott Robinson takes attendees on a journey through experience design, where boundaries are just a thing of the past. Get ready to think outside the box.

Date: Friday, May 3
Time: 12:00 p.m. to 2:00 p.m.
Location: Escuela Libre de Arquitectura | C. Coahuila 8206-int. 203, Zona Nte., 22000 Tijuana

Taller de Codiseño de Persona Drag

This workshop is all about drag in Tijuana, and will explore gender and design. Of course, with live appearances, and the chance to take in a show.

Date: Friday, May 3
Time: 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Location: Enclave | C. Primera 8250, zona Nnte. 220000 Tijuana

World Design Festival's Tijuana Design Week including events and lectures by designer Yee Foo Lai
Courtesy of Yee Foo Lai

2024 World Design Festival Events – Day 4

Jorge Gutierrez y Sandra Equihua

Sandra Equihua and Jorge R. Gutiérrez are known as the dynamic duo behind favorite animated series including El Tigre: The Adventures of Manny Rivera, El Tigre, The Book of Life, Son of Jaguar, and Maya and the Three. They’ll share their journey from Tijuana to global recognition, and you’ll leave feeling inspired.

Date: Saturday, May 4
Time: 9:00 a.m. to 10:00 a.m.
Location: CECUT – Sala Carlos Monsivais | Blvd. Independencia, Zona Urbana Rio Tijuana

AIGA Symbol Signs / Símbolos Significativos de AIGA

Susan Merritt takes attendees on a journey through the history of design. You’ll explore the iconic AIGA Symbol Signs and learn how they’ve shaped transportation and communication.

Date: Saturday, May 4
Time: 11:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m.
Location: CECUT – Sala Federico Campbell

Yee Foo: Two-Fold Encounters

Come meet Yee Foo Lai and discover his world of design. Foo Lai co-founded Temporary Office, a multi-disciplinary design collaborative and is a project designer at Trahan Architects and will share his journey from Singapore to New York.

Date: Saturday, May 4
Time: 4:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Location: CECUT – Sala de video

The post What to See at the WDC’s 2024 World Design Festival appeared first on San Diego Magazine.

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Finding Family Heritage (& Losing an Earring) in Mexico https://staging.sandiegomagazine.com/features/colima-mexico-family-roots/ Fri, 05 Apr 2024 19:35:10 +0000 https://sandiegomagazine.com/?p=74637 In a small state on the country's west coast, SDM’s associate editor returns to her roots

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My father and his six siblings grew up in Comala, a cozy town in the small, coastal Mexican state of Colima, about three hours by plane from San Diego. I spent childhood summers visiting but had returned only once since my parents split in 2010.

I recalled Colima mostly in senses: the sweet scent of ripe guava, the croak of white-lipped frogs and itch of mosquito bites, the patter of rain on a neighbor’s pool, surrounded by lush gardens. Monolingual, I couldn’t speak much to my grandmother, with whom I share a name, but I remember her hugs and the way she’d let my brother and I splash in the dish basin in her open-air kitchen, which sat on the edge of the large, grassy courtyard in the heart of her house.

People handing out bread in Comala, Mexico
Photo Credit: Toniee Colón
Customers flock to a vendor selling pan dulce on the streets of Comala.

I was in college when word came that she’d passed. Sadly, we hadn’t talked in over a decade. I regretted that I’d never really known her, and over time I felt myself longing to better understand her world. I downloaded the Duolingo app and logged lessons day after day for years, building upon several semesters of middle school Spanish.

Still, even as my language skills grew, other reasons kept me from returning to Colima. I’m not on good terms with my father, and I wasn’t sure how his side of the family would receive me. And, then, the fact that I’m gay. My Mexican relatives represented a whole swath of new—very Catholic—people to come out to.

But I knew I’d regret not trying. I messaged my dad’s younger sister Raquel on Facebook, asking if I could come visit. I mentioned my girlfriend and did not mention my dad.

“Por supuesto,” she wrote back quickly. Of course.


San Diego Magazine associate editor Amelia Rodriguez with her family in Colima, Mexico
Photo Credit: Toniee Colón
The author (center) and her family comb through albums of old photos.

I look like my tía Raquel. The thought surprised me the first time it occurred, as I fastened a hoop earring below my slicked-back bun. It dangled above the collar of my oversized white button-down.

I hadn’t seen Raquel since I was 11, and I couldn’t quite picture her face. But I recognized in the ensemble touches of the casually glamorous style that I envied as a child. And it seems other people see it, too. When I step into Mexican-owned businesses—fruterías, coffee shops—dressed like her, cashiers greet me in Spanish. If I’m in my winter turtlenecks, my fine hair loose around my shoulders, people seem to see my white American mother more than my Mexican father. They say “Good morning” instead of “Buenos días.” It makes me curious who I really resemble.


Historical artifacts in the courtyard at the Alejandro Rangel Hidalgo University Museum in Comala, Mexico
Photo Credit: Toniee Colón
Rooms full of lovely furniture and historical artifacts frame a lush courtyard at the Alejandro Rangel Hidalgo University Museum.

At Raquel’s large, modern house in Colima’s capital city of the same name, I finally have a chance to search her face, wondering what features we might share. Bound by my so-so Spanish skills, I try not to be frustrated that I can’t yet ask everything I want to know about her childhood, her memories, the sort of person my grandmother really was.

She’s patient, though, as I stumble over conjugations, and she shows me a picture of her daughter Celeste and a young woman I don’t recognize. “That’s Celeste’s girlfriend, Marcella,” she tells me.

I stifle a gasp. I’d had no idea Celeste dated women. I realize she paved the way for that unblinking “of course.”

Raquel digs out old photo albums, showing me my abuela at 6 or 7, looking solemn in a school photo, then my uncle Reyes, Raquel’s husband, who’d died of Covid. It’s hard with the language barrier, but I can see shades of it: her enormous grief and, simultaneously, her peace and strength. All this I’ve missed, I think, while hiding in California.

At some point, I realize I’ve lost one of my hoop earrings.

I search the house and Raquel’s car. I file a report with the airline. But it doesn’t turn up, and I comfort myself with the departed jewelry’s narrative power: a thing symbolizing my link to this place, left behind somewhere in Mexico.


Interior of the Alejandro Rangel Hidalgo University Museum in Comala, Mexico featuring brick arched architecture
Photo Credit: Toniee Colón
Spectacular arched architecture defines the hacienda where the museum is housed.

I ’d love to tell you that Comala hasn’t changed, that, when we visit, I’m able to slip back into the world of my childhood memories. In some ways, I am. There’s still the picturesque town square, bordered by little shops hawking local sea salt and fragrant leather huaraches. The white-and-yellow chapel where I was baptized stands as proud as ever. The people still wave hello to one another in the cobblestone streets.

However, cartel activity has increased in recent years. Colima now has one of the highest crime rates in Mexico. I don’t feel unsafe, but there’s a newly anxious undercurrent here.

And, at my abuela’s house, her absence is palpable. Spiny weeds have overtaken her once-verdant courtyard. I walk to the kitchen, though, and see the familiar dish basin. I dip my fingers in and remember her lifting me up so I could peer at the water’s surface. We didn’t need words for me to know she loved me.


Coconut palm groves along a road in Colima, Mexico
Photo Credit: Toniee Colón
Dense coconut palm groves line many Colima roads.

When I was small, my family and I used to pass entire days at Las Hamacas del Mayor, a beachside restaurant in the agricultural region of Tecomán.

I recognize it the moment we pull up: the giant clamshell at the entrance, the pool with a dolphin-shaped waterslide, the tables laden with whole fried dorados.

After lunch, Celeste and I walk down the beach, its sand charcoal-black from the nearby volcano. In the distance, I think I see a rainbow flag. I figure it must mean something different here—after all, a gay bar? In rural Mexico? But as we get close, I spot drag queens dancing on a makeshift stage in Rockette bodysuits.

We stand and watch for a while. I want to tell Celeste what it means to me to share this with her. Though my mother’s family welcomes my girlfriend during the holidays, I’d always felt the unspoken difference of my queerness. Now I see I’m no longer alone.

It feels like too much, so I stay silent, but we both smile as the queens twirl.


My father lives in Comala, but I don’t see him. He remains a casual elephant in the room—I don’t talk about him, and neither does anyone else. Finally, over breakfast on my final day, Raquel spends a long time typing something on her phone. She passes it to me, a translation app open. “How are things with your dad?” the screen reads. “You don’t have to tell me, but you can always talk to me.”

“We haven’t spoken in years,” I admit in Spanish. “I don’t want to see him. Maybe next time.”

She nods. “Of course.” Then, fervently, in English: “I’m with you. Always. You come first.” Even after all this time goes unspoken.

Hours later at the airport, when I hug her tight and promise to come back soon, I hope she knows how much I mean it.


At home in San Diego, I dig through my jewelry dish, seeking a pair to replace my now-lonely hoop—only to find its errant twin. Apparently, I’d forgotten to put it on days before. It was never missing; simply waiting, primed to be rediscovered. I snap it into place. Then I let down my hair and look in the mirror. All the women in my family stare back.


The town of Comala, Mexico featuring its iconic white-and-yellow chapel
Photo Credit: Toniee Colón
The town of Comala is perhaps best known for its stately white-and-yellow chapel.

Colima at a Glance

A beautiful green territory dwarfed by neighbors Jalisco and Michoacán, Colima has the smallest population in Mexico. Once home to a number of pre-colonial civilizations, the state is known for charming red pottery figures of round-bellied dogs. Two volcanoes—referred to as “fire and ice” because one is active and the other is dormant—perch at Colima’s border, and lush rainforests and orchards cover much of its land. Colima is Mexico’s primary producer of limes. Biodiversity abounds here, and visitors may see reptile species like crocodiles, iguanas, and sea turtles.

If you find yourself in Colima, visit the port city of Manzanillo to snorkel amid coral reefs and shipwrecks. About an hour from the state’s capital, El Tortugario Centro Ecologico de Cuyutlan gives tourists the chance to say hello to rescued sea turtles, take a boat tour of a lagoon teeming with wildlife, and even release freshly hatched turtles safely into the sea. See Colima’s famous dog statues and other archeological finds at the Colima City Regional History Museum. For more art and history, explore the small but lovely Alejandro Rangel Hidalgo Miguel University Museum, a garden-flocked hacienda showcasing the artist’s furniture designs and slightly surreal lithographs of children in traditional dress. Afterward, shop for artisan creations and sample local eats in the friendly little town of Comala.

The post Finding Family Heritage (& Losing an Earring) in Mexico appeared first on San Diego Magazine.

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The Best Surf Spots in Baja California https://staging.sandiegomagazine.com/things-to-do/baja-california-surf-spot-guide/ Wed, 20 Mar 2024 18:03:59 +0000 https://sandiegomagazine.com/?p=73094 Find more than 2,000 miles of coastline offering perfect waves, fish tacos, and plenty of adventure just south of the border

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Growing up riding the waves of San Diego’s many breaks, I’ve come to appreciate our city’s consistent surf and beautiful beaches—but as summer arrives, so do flocks of tourists, beginners on wavestorms, and other coastal calamities. During these times, I daydream of the surfer’s paradise that lies just below our southern border: Baja California, Mexico. There, untouched reefs and punchy breaks await those that seek them.

And while each San Diego surf spot has a handful of nicknames assigned by locals, Baja surf spots are often identified by the kilometer marker along Highway 1 (K-38, K-42, K-55, and so on), as thousands of waves extend beyond surfers’ dominion. So, grab your board, wax, and pesos, and embark on an adventure to Baja California’s best surf spots. 

Longboard surfer at a Baja California surf spot at sunset or sunrise

Tips for Surfing in Baja California

  • Get car insurance and consider renting a car if your vehicle isn’t equipped with a reliable suspension. If you’re planning on venturing further south, four-by-four drivetrains and wheels of 15-plus inches are highly recommended.
  • Respect the locals in and out of the water, and touch up on your Spanish. Here are a few helpful phrases to know:
    • ola de izquierda: left wave
    • ola de derecho: right wave 
    • boya: kook
    • lo siento: I’m sorry
  • Pack adequate food and water, especially if you’re venturing deep into Baja California Sur. You never know when you’ll pass the last mercado or convenience store.
  • Make photo copies of your passport, ID, and credit cards in case of emergency.
  • Use ATMs at reputable banks in Mexico to get the best exchange rate. ATMs will ask you if you accept their conversion rate. Select “No” and you’ll have the option to use your own bank’s conversion rate, which is typically better.
  • Buy bottled water at the start of your trip. Tap water quality is notoriously unregulated in parts of Mexico, so use caution.
  • Bring sunscreen and a first aid kit.
Baja surf spot called Baja Malibu near Tijuana, Mexico
Courtesy of SurfSpots.org

Baja California Norte Surf Spots

Baja Malibu 

Malibu without the crowds? Sign me up. Contrary to its name, Baja Malibu isn’t a peeling canvas for longboarders to dance across. Instead, it’s a fast-breaking beach break ideal for shortboards. Just 30 miles south of downtown San Diego and southwest of Tijuana, it is many San Diegans’ first stop in the search for Baja waves. This spot packs serious heat, given a solid south swell and even some barrel time for those who can make the drop. Pack your shortboard and paddle out into world-class waves. Afterwards, stop by Bullies Patisserie or burger bar Plan B for fuel and start all over again tomorrow. 

Type of Surf Break: Beach break

Skill Level: Advanced

Ideal Tide: Mid

Aerial view of K-38 Baja surf spot near Ensenada, Mexico
Courtesy of Surf Forecast

K-38

One of Northern Baja’s most beloved waves is a reliable, bowly right known simply as K-38. Just 25 miles south of Rosarito, this popular point break dishes up waves across four peaks known as The Point, The Left, Maria’s, and Theresa’s, which provide consistent rides year-round. Consider wearing booties to avoid grating your feet on the rocks and watch out for sea urchins ready to sting you on a wipeout at low tide. Just up the street, K-38 is home to its own surf shop, motel for lodging, and a Surfline cam, making it one of Baja’s more accessible waves.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Type of Surf Break: Reef with rocks

Ideal Tide: Mid or low

Aerial view of Rosarito beach Baja surf spot and pier
Courtesy of Tripadvisor

Rosarito Beach

If downing tequila shots and dancing at bumpin’ beachside restaurant Papas & Beer til midnight, then paddling out six hours later sounds appealing, Rosarito Beach is your spot. Often known for its lively nightlife and popularity as a destination for expats, Rosarito can provide fun waves and sandbars to ride if paired with a proper combo swell. Pollution can be a factor here after rainy days, and booties are recommended—not to protect you from submerged hazards, but from a smattering of relics in the sand from partiers and local horseback tours.

Skill Level: Beginner

Type of Surf Break: Beach break

Ideal Tide: Mid

Sign for Playa Saldamando aka Salsipuedes surf spot in Mexico near Ensenada
Photo Credit: Cole Novak

Salsipuedes

Perched on some of Northern Baja’s steepest cliffs, Salsipuedes translates to “leave if you can.” Heed the locals’ advice and bring a four-by-four vehicle with proper tread, a big wave gun or step-up, and a renewed health insurance policy if you plan on visiting during a powerful southwest swell. Surfers can access this spot through the Playa Saldamando campground for around $19 per night—or via a friend’s boat, if you’re so lucky. Salsipuedes transforms into a surfer’s paradise when bigger swells hit the point. To the north is a fun A-frame breaking over a reef, and further south is a point break with hollow rights sure to evoke Baja euphoria

Skill Level: Advanced

Type of Surf Break: Point break and reef

Ideal Tide: Low

La Fonda in Mexico also known as K58 or Alisitos campground
Courtesy of Airbnb

La Fonda

Baja is a regular-footers paradise, home to endless rights, but here’s one for the goofy-footers. This exposed rivermouth point break hosts a left that’s only 58 miles from downtown San Diego. Pay for parking at the Alisitos K-58 campsite, scope the waves from the cliffs, and paddle out to an empty peak (if you can find one). La Fonda is a gem when a solid west or south swell hits and can get crowded when it’s pumping. Visit La Mision for fish tacos and a cerveza in this small pueblo community just a few minutes inland to end a relaxing day of surfing. 

Skill Level: Intermediate

Type of Surf Break: Point break

Ideal Tide: Mid

Aerial view of Baja California Sur surf spot Scoprion Bay at sunset
Courtesy of Casalava at Punta Pequeña

Baja California Sur Surf Spots

Scorpion Bay

For more seasoned vagabonds traveling down the Baja coastline, stop by Scorpion Bay for a glimpse of longboarding heaven. This point break has been heralded as one of Mexico’s best surf spots, but those drawn there must be prepared for ungraded dirt roads, limited reception, and long stretches of emptiness. Rows of waves curl into this peculiar bay, breaking over a tabletop slab—a mirage in a landscape painted with sand dunes, distant plateaus, and a handful of local fishing vessels. Visitors can camp on the point for around $200 pesos per person for prime beach access or stay in a bungalow in the quaint town of San Juanico. 

Skill Level: Intermediate

Type of Surf Break: Point break

Ideal Tide: Low or mid

Beachbreak Playa Los Cerritos with the Hacienda Cerritos hotel in the background on the cliffs
Courtesy of Expedia

Playa Los Cerritos

Journey north on your next trip to Los Cabos to ride waves at the pleasant beach of Los Cerritos. The spot, known for its iconic Hacienda Cerritos hotel atop the cliffs, attracts flocks of surfers of all skill levels while providing a sandy beach for land-faring travel companions. The main peak breaks over sandbars, offering mellow waves, while the southern reef peak provides more lip for advanced surfers. After a session, paddle in and grab a few fish tacos and a margarita to enjoy on the water.

Skill Level: Beginner

Type of Surf Break: Beach break and reef

Ideal Tide: Mid to high

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CBP App Wreaks Havoc for Migrants in San Diego and TJ https://staging.sandiegomagazine.com/everything-sd/cbp-app-issues-for-migrants/ Wed, 17 Jan 2024 20:05:59 +0000 https://sandiegomagazine.com/?p=67021 Billed as a way for asylum seekers to secure appointments, the CBP One app is instead marked by long wait times and biased requirements

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Abu Bakr, a 21-year-old Turkish mechanical engineering student turned asylum-seeker, speaks to me through the border wall near San Ysidro. He’s being held by Border Patrolin one of the two open-air detention sites in San Diego County–this one sits between the two border walls.

“My mother’s friend said, ‘If you go to America, […] you have your rights. If you are afraid that someone is following you and your life is in danger, they accept you there,’” he tells me.

App screens from CBP One app for U.S. Migration created by the U.S. Customs and Border Protection
Courtesy of the U.S. Customs and Border Protection

Abu Bakr wears round hipster glasses and has an iPhone in his pocket—a device he used to try to get an appointment to request asylum through the CBP One app. Right now, CBP One is virtually the sole means of accessing asylum—a right recognized by both international law and US law—but the app is proving to be a nightmare for both migrants and advocates at the border

“[The CBP One app] didn’t work, so we chose this way,” Abubakr says. By “this way,” he means crossing the border without permission, outside of the official ports of entry. 

Migrants like Abu Bakr who cannot figure out the app, wait, or know about it often find the gaps in the primary border wall to go through, then turn themselves in to the Border Patrol

“They have no other option if they want to seek asylum,” says Hollie Webb, a supervising attorney at Al Otro Lado (AOL), a nonprofit that helps migrants navigate the asylum system. “Because if they go to a port of entry, which they have a legal right to do, they will almost 99 percent of the time be turned away.”

A group of protesters from the Haitian Bridge Alliance at the U.S.-Mexico border wall
Courtesy of the Haitian Bridge Alliance

The AOL team and their clients, alongside another immigration-focused nonprofit called Haitian Bridge Alliance, are currently embroiled in a class-action complaint against California’s Southern District. AOL attorneys argue that, in turning asylum seekers away at ports of entry, the United States is violating international and domestic law. 

The cell phone app CBP One has been around since 2020. In May of 2023, however, the Biden administration made it the only way people could ask for asylum in the United States, just as the controversial, Trump-era Title 42—which allowed speedy deportations of migrants during Covid—was phased out. 

At the time, officials touted the software as the solution for longtime problems with the US immigration system. “[The app] will expand the number of appointments, allow for additional time, [and] prioritize those first registered,” Customs and Border Protection announced in a press release

The San Diego Tijuana border wall featuring images of people on the bars of the structure
Courtesy of Al Otro Lado

But migrant advocates at the border say the app has proven problematic. “People here in Tijuana are having to wait for three [or] four months or longer to get an appointment,” Webb explains. Before the app and Title 42, people could come to any Port of Entry and ask for asylum then and there, without having to wait. 

And there are other issues: CBP One is only offered in three languages (English, Spanish, and Haitian), and is reportedly riddled with error messages and bugs, crashes often, can only be used in Mexico north of Mexico City, and requires migrants to have an address in the US.

Additionally, Webb sees a clear discrepancy with the treatment of thousands of Ukranian asylum-seekers who arrived in Tijuana in 2022–while Title 42 was still in place– and were processed as they reached the San Ysidro Port of Entry.

“The administration and CBP are always talking about the lack of capacity, and that’s why they can’t process the asylum seekers,” she says. “But we saw the year before last with the Ukrainians that they processed up to 1,000 asylum seekers just at the San Ysidro port of entry. Suddenly, when the asylum seekers aren’t white, there’s a problem with capacity.”

Courtesy of American Friends Service Committee

A 10-minute drive from the open-air detention site where I speak to Abukabr, I meet Jehovana de los Ángeles Rangel Serrano. She is sitting on the floor holding her six-month-old baby in front of the Ped West port of entry in San Ysidro, among 60 or so other migrants who were able to get one of the prized appointments and put in their asylum petitions with CBP. “We waited a month-and-a-half in Mexico,” she says. “But that was just lucky.”

Rangel Serrano’s family had to register through the app four times before finally securing an appointment at the border. “We waited in Mexico City, then Monterrey, Saltillo, and Tijuana—everywhere really!” she recalls. 

Her husband and older child are beside her, looking tired but happy. They are Venezuelan, same as many other families in their group. Just past noon, a bus arrives to take them to a shelter, where they will wait—yet again—to board a plane to their final destination. In Rangel Serrano’s case, that’s Philadelphia, where her brother lives. 

Migrants in this group seem satisfied with the existing asylum channels. Webb tells me that most migrants who get an appointment through CBP One feel good about it; that the petition process was shorter than they expected. 

Open air detention sites near the San Diego Tijuana border
Courtesy of Al Otro Lado

But back at the open-air detention site between the border walls, Abu Bakr sits on a camping chair. He came alone with his mother, but in his group are two other women, one with two small children and another with four, including a baby who is currently sleeping peacefully on her lap. 

“We have been waiting here since 3 a.m.,” he tells me. He explains that his family received death threats after his grandfather, a government official, passed away. “In Tajikistan, I was with my mother when the police came and they put restraints on her. They asked her for money,” he recalls.

Looking at the makeshift camp made of blue tarps and easy-up tents provided by migrant advocates, I ask him if this is what he imagined when he decided to travel to the US. 

“I was ready for everything for the safety of my mother,” he answers.

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The Top 9 Must-Visit Breweries in Baja California https://staging.sandiegomagazine.com/food-drink/best-baja-california-breweries/ Wed, 29 Nov 2023 22:15:13 +0000 https://sandiegomagazine.com/?p=63266 The ultimate guide to the percolating beer scene south of the border

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I visited more than 50 breweries in Baja California this year. Its three major cities—Tijuana, Mexicali and Ensenada—have more than 25 breweries each, making it the state with the most breweries in Mexico (and the most awarded).

Tijuana is chaotic and competitive, beer is for city folk in a dog-eat-dog market. Ensenada is laid back and married to the sea, beer is for the tourists seeking relaxation and seafood. Mexicali has hellish weather; beer is for the locals to survive the heat.

Each city has its unique burgeoning scene, as well as some bad players. This list compiles the best beer Baja California has to offer, from ninth best to first. 

Baja California brewery Farland Aleworks' award winning beer, Yoda the Gentleman from the 2023 San Diego International Beer Competition
Courtesy of Farland Aleworks

Farland Aleworks

Tijuana

It’s only been a year since Farland Aleworks opened in “La Veinte de Noviembre” neighborhood (near the Xolos Stadium). Investing more than a million dollars, Farland set a new standard if you want to be competitive in the Baja beer scene. The brewery did not cut any corners; everything is pristine, the branding, the food, and the beer (in any style). They built a big four-story building alluding to a galactic brewery, the space theme continues into the bathrooms. Their hazy pale ale Yoda the Gentleman, recently won bronze in the San Diego International Beer Competition.

Three beers from Baja California brewery, Cervecería Icono, on a bar in front of brewing casks
Courtesy of Cervecería Icono

Cervecería Icono

Mexicali

Also a big investment, Cervecería Ícono took over the old Mexicali Brewing company grounds, originally built in 1923 and closed in 1973 (and subsequently abandoned). It wasn’t until 2019 that Ícono converted the space into the biggest beer garden in Baja and the second largest in all of Mexico (beaten only by Cervecería Hércules in Querétaro). Besides a solid lineup of beers, it also has a bar, music stage, and contains numerous food options including pizza, burgers, tacos, a smokehouse, and more. 

Cervecería Agua Mala's current lineup of beers featuring marine life illustrations
Courtesy of Cervecería Agua Mala

Cervecería Agua Mala

Ensenada

Founded in 2005 by marine biologist Nathaniel Schmidt, most of Agua Mala’s beers are related to the ocean. Their tap room is made out of recycled shipping containers with murals of sea creatures. Though it sounds like “bad water,” the actual translation of Agua Mala is jellyfish (their logo). Agua Mala has been winning awards since 2010, they recently got six medals in Copa Baja including two gold for their Vieja (Amber Lager) and Mero (Czech Lager). With an ocean obsession, the menu has fresh seafood including Kumeyaay oysters, which they also use to brew La Perla Oyster stout.

Amante Brew Company

Mexicali

A hop in the shape of a heart with an arrow across is their logo, Amante translates to lover. Founded in 2011, Amante claims to be the first truly independent brewery in Mexico. Most of their beers have women’s names, others have names like their foreign extra stout which they call “La Panocha” slang for uhh… women’s genitalia. The aforementioned beer recently won silver in Copa Baja and “Marie,” my favorite saison, won bronze. 

Courtesy of Mamut Cervecería

Mamut Cervecería

Tijuana

Mamut is the first brewery I tried in Tijuana in 2013, and since then, you often find me drinking there. It’s been a rollercoaster of quality and staff. For a couple of years, they were brewing garbage (many locals swore it off). But Mamut persisted, and in the past years they’ve been brewing award-winning beers, and their quality keeps improving. The spacious brewery is located in one of Tijuana’s oldest buildings, the Foreign Club. But to best enjoy Mamut’s beers, find the original tiny location where it all started inside Pasaje Rodríguez.

Baja California brewery Fauna Tasting Room's spacious outdoor patio featuring tables and string lights
Courtesy of Fauna Tasting Room

Fauna Tasting Room

Mexicali 

Fauna is a fantasy world of beasts, fairies, goblins, wizards, and beers. It is the biggest and best-established brewery in Mexicali, delivering beer all over Mexico with its Dungeons and Dragons-themed labels. They refer to everyone as a carnavalastro (slang for “bro”) and invite you to taste their magical brews. They won five medals in Copa Baja 2023 including two gold for their Nox Arcana (Imperial Stout) and Gozo Real (Belgian Single). 

Brewery Cervecería Insurgente's lineup of beers including their popular La Lupulosa brew
Courtesy of Cervecería Insurgente

Cervecería Insurgente

Tijuana

Cervecería Insurgente is home to one of the most recognized IPAs in Mexico “La Lupulosa” or the hoppy one. It is the best-established beer in Tijuana. Their logo of an owl is recognized by beer aficionados all over Mexico and parts of the United States. Insurgente collaborated in 2014 with Stone Brewing to brew Xocoveza, an award-winning stout with Mexican hot chocolate mixed with coffee. Despite fighting with the Tijuana government, which caused them to shut down their plant, Insurgente never lost its superb quality. After three years of struggle, they re-opened their main facility in August 2022.

Table of beer drinkers at Wendlandt Tasting Room in Baja California with an oceanfront view
Courtesy of Wendlandt Tasting Room

Wendlandt Tasting Room

Ensenada

Situated in El Sauzal, next to the ocean, Wendlandt is one of the biggest craft breweries in Mexico producing more than 100,000 liters a month. Wendlandt started brewing in 2012 and won the best brewery in Copa Mexico twice (2015 and 2019). In 2016, they expanded distribution to the United States (it’s easily available in San Diego). Everything I tried from Wendlandt has been outstanding, including their food offerings. Their six lines of beers have won multiple awards except for their newest addition, a session IPA named Tuna Turner. 

Two beers, one IPA and one red ale, from Baja California brewery Cerveza Cardera in front of brewing casks
Courtesy of Cerveza Cardera

Cerveza Cardera

Ensenada

The first time I tried Cerveza Cardera I was blown away. Their mango with chamoy Berliner-Weisse reminded me of my favorite Mexican candy in a sour beer format. It continued to amaze me with their Dosis Perfecta, a Carajillo Stout with coffee, and Licor 43 (a Spanish liqueur with 43 ingredients). A family business that started in a humble garage in 2013 in a quiet Ensenada neighborhood, it quickly expanded to a large warehouse (which they share with Cerveza Bruer). Cardera is a portmanteau of the owners and married couple Armando Carednas and Rebecca Ramírez. It won Best Brewery Aro Rojo in 2022 (Mexico’s international beer competition) and won three gold and a bronze in the recent Copa Baja.

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On Your Next Mexico Vacation, Get a Nose Job https://staging.sandiegomagazine.com/things-to-do/travel/tijuana-mexico-cosmetic-surgery/ Mon, 20 Nov 2023 20:09:40 +0000 https://sandiegomagazine.com/?p=62132 With costs for cosmetic and medical procedures steadily increasing in the US, Tijuana clinics provide more affordable care for those willing to make the trek

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As kids, some people dream about what they want to be when they grow up. Others dream about their wedding day. I dreamt about getting a nose job. 

During my era of highly cringe-inducing teen years, an insecurity about the hump on my nose became a concern. I knew that my issue—a first-world problem at worst—came with a hefty price tag (between $6,500 and $12,000 in San Diego, according to La Jolla’s Golden Triangle Plastic Surgery and Medical Spa). 

Women with her eyes covered with sponges during cosmetic procedure at Renace Spa in Tijuana, Mexico
Courtesy of Renace Spa Tijuana

Lucky for me, I found a loophole—a loophole called living 20 minutes away from the gateway to Tijuana in Baja California, the number one destination in Mexico for medical tourism

Things you inherit from your family (a big nose, in my case) can be compensated for in different ways. For me, that looked like referrals for plastic surgeons across the border. Within a few years, I had landed a spot on an operating table in Tijuana, a new nose, and a bill that was half the price of a cosmetic surgery in San Diego.

As one of the 1.2 million US residents who travel to Mexico annually for medical purposes, according to Medical Tourism Mexico, I’m not the first San Diegan to wonder about the places beyond our borders that promise affordable and high-quality procedures. And I surely won’t be the last. In 2022, Baja California received four million people from around the world seeking medical care, dental care, or cosmetic procedures.

A cosmetologist from Mint Medical Group in Tijuana, Mexico conducting a skin procedure on a patient
Courtesy of Mint Medical Group

In 2021, Eduardo Padilla, a 32-year-old Mission Valley resident, heard Tijuana was a promising destination for rhinoplasty and septoplasty surgeries. Through a family member, Padilla found plastic surgeon Bernardo Cervantes, MD, who established his private practice in 1986. A cash payment of $2,500 covered Padilla’s rhinoplasty, septoplasty, hospital fees, and postoperative care.

Throughout Cervantes’ tenure, he has noticed that nearly 60 percent of his patients are from San Diego, ostensibly for the prices. According to Josef Woodman of Patients Beyond Borders, North American patients travel to Mexico to save 50 to 70 percent in comparison to what they would pay in the US. 

On our side of the border, healthcare costs in America have increased annually by 4.8 percent since 2021. This year, costs are projected to rise by 5.6 percent according to the 2023 Milliman Medical Index (MMI). And, for individuals, the average annual spend on healthcare has jumped from $6,472 in 2021 to $7,221 in 2023. 

Interior of Mint Medical Group's spa for cosmetic and plastic surgeries
Courtesy of Mint Medical Spa

With patients traveling from as far as San Francisco and Texas, Cervantes notes that the cost of airfare, accommodation, and other travel payments can add up. He’s convinced that personalized care—not affordability—may be the biggest incentive for tourists. 

“We don’t have intermediaries or outside people who take care of our patients for us,” Cervantes says. “[Knowing that no one other than myself] will take care of them gives patients a lot of trust.” 

Laura Contreras, 32, also believes service is better in Mexico than the US. She’s been a regular at Tijuana-based medical spas like Renace Spa and Dermatológica for years, keeping up with special promos on facials and fillers via WhatsApp. Contreras cites the spas’ cleanliness and certifications, as well as their prices, as reasons for her return.

However, the traffic and distance have made Contreras consider saying goodbye to Tijuana, as long travel times have become an inconvenience. “It’s unfortunate that the traffic has become such an issue for me,” she says. “I’m just not looking forward to getting familiarized with clinics here [in San Diego].”

Line of cars waiting to cross the US Mexico border in San Ysidro near San Diego
Courtesy of Wikipedia

To help tackle long wait times at the border, medical fast lanes were launched for US residents who travel to Tijuana for medical purposes. Natalie Aguilar, 24, who lives in Bonita, regularly takes advantage of the lanes to get cosmetic treatments. “I’ve always had that luxury to go across the border and get better rates,” Aguilar says. “With the medical passes that a lot of these doctors or clinics give out, I can go and come back real quick.”

Many US patients have expressed concerns about going under the knife (or syringe) in Baja California. But according to Dr. Rodrigo Robledo Silva, the director of Tijuana’s Medical Health Cluster, “a certain [level of] quality standards have to be met, just as in the case of the parameters or standards requested by the Joint Commission in the United States.”

Dr. Janine Rosales, the founder of Mint Medical Spa Group, suggests looking out for red flags when traveling for cosmetic procedures, as some spas have been known to use knock-off Botox and filler products. Examine injectables to ensure the packaging is sealed and that the brand is FDA approved and/or has the Conformité Européene (CE) Mark. 

According to the International Association for Physicians in Aesthetic Medicine (IAPAM), aesthetic, non-invasive treatments such as Botox, fillers, and chemical peels have grown in popularity—which may send even more San Diegans across the border, seeking procedures that are prohibitively expensive on the American side of the line. 

Healthcare and cosmetic procedure costs in the US aren’t declining anytime soon. Is traveling internationally the key to looking and feeling your best? That remains up to you to decide. 

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The Music Festival Creating Harmony Between the US & Mexico https://staging.sandiegomagazine.com/everything-sd/arts-culture/fandango-fronterizo-music-festival/ Wed, 18 Oct 2023 20:53:10 +0000 https://sandiegomagazine.com/?p=58980 The annual Fandango Fronterizo event celebrates 15 years, despite shifting border policies affecting its mission

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On October 7, I stood three feet away from the San Diego-Tijuana border wall, listening to the rattling sounds coming from an instrument made with a donkey’s jaw (a quijada de burro) played by Fandango Fronterizo musician Sergio Pérez Bibiano.

Founded in 2008 by Jorge Castillo, Fandango Fronterizo is a cross-border event put on with the intention of bringing together son jarocho musicians from both the US and Mexico. Today, it has become a powerful symbol for breaking down the boundaries between people, communities, and countries.

This month, the Fandango Fronterizo celebrated its 15-year anniversary with a music festival in the same site where it first emerged: the border. Fandango Fronterizo, which loosely translates to “border jam session,” features a form of folk music originating from Veracruz in the Gulf Coast of Mexico. 

Son jarocho combines multiple cultures—Spanish, African, and Indigenous—that came together more than 500 years ago, and its stanzas involve a type of call and response between the musicians and their listeners (the most popular son jarocho tune is the song “La Bamba”). 

Two musicians peering through the US Mexico wall with guitars on their backs
Courtesy of Fandango at the Wall

Unlike in Fandango Fronterizo’s earlier years, though, when the musicians sing their calls at Parque de la Amistad in Tijuana, no responses come from the other side. Castillo explains that they haven’t received permission from Border Patrol to sing on the United States side of the wall since 2018. 

“We organize this event every year,” says Castillo. “As far as I know, we haven’t caused any problems. We follow the rules.” The silence on the US side has cut off an integral aspect of the annual event. 

“[Playing only on the Tijuana side] is very sad,” says Carmen Castro, a member of Fandango Fronterizo’s committee and a participant in the festival for a decade. “[Playing on both sides] was a way of telling the world that music, fraternity, and family are not divided by this wall—they surpass borders.”

In recent years, this shift has made it increasingly difficult to hold the festival in the way it was created—on both sides of the border—due to the militarization of the wall. “We don’t need walls. Why do we have to be separated? Why can birds fly over and wind and music cross [the wall], and we can’t,” Castillo asks. “That’s the message that we give everytime we’re here—that’s our main thought.”

Longtime participant Mari Carmen Arjona says that now, many colleagues no longer attend. In previous years, they would spend mornings celebrating on both sides of the border wall; then, everyone who could, would cross to TJ for an all-night party. 

Fandango Fronterizo event at the US Mexico Border with son jarocho musicians shaking hands
Courtesy of Fandango at the Wall

“You feel like you’re missing a part, because [the community] is precisely what characterizes the border fandango,” says Arjona who lives in the Bay Area and first visited the San Diego-Tijuana border in 1999. Back then, she says, there were bars separating the two countries, but people could reach through them and touch each other. “You could buy mangos across the border!” she recalls, laughing. 

Then came the interwoven fence that blocks objects or hands from passing through, the visitation hours imposed by Border Patrol on the north side of the fence, and, now, the taller, prison-like, and sometimes deadly 30-foot wall. In 2018, author Kebir Sehgal focused on Fandango Fronterizo as a blueprint for how to heal relations between the US and Mexico in his book Fandango at the Wall: Creating Harmony Between the United States and Mexico

Castro says that she has experienced this healing power firsthand. The sense of togetherness is the reason she has come back all these years. “I fell in love with friendship, with community, with caring about doing something for others,” she says. “I’m a social worker, so I feel like I fit perfectly.”

The very first Fandango Fronterizo began in the afternoon. “Around 4:30 p.m., [Border Patrol agents] said, ‘It’s better that you guys start wrapping up,’” Castillo recalls. “And I said, ‘Just one more song.’ Then, we started playing ‘La Bamba,’ and the song lasted for one hour, and [the agents] couldn’t believe it was still the same song. I tried to wrap it up and [the other musicians] wouldn’t, because everybody was so into it.”

Next year, they hope to once again sing, play, and dance in the two countries at the same time. “We are transborder communities. We have exchanges [and] interdependence, and the way to remember that is through art [and] culture,” Arjona says. “That’s why it’s important to keep this space, claim it, and keep insisting that we want to sing on both sides of the border.”


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How to Celebrate Mexican Independence Day https://staging.sandiegomagazine.com/things-to-do/how-to-celebrate-mexican-independence-day/ Fri, 08 Sep 2023 03:48:00 +0000 https://staging.sdmag-courtavenuelatam.com/uncategorized/how-to-celebrate-mexican-independence-day/ Get your red, white, and green ready to celebrate the national holiday with these local fiestas and events

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SD Chinelos Fest 2023

SD Chinelos Fest 2023

Courtesy of SD Chinelos Fest

On September 15 at 11 p.m., in the center square of almost every town in Mexico—and many north of the border—a bell rings and people yell “Viva México” to celebrate their country’s Independence.El Grito de Dolores, a harangue by priest Miguel Hidalgo on the same day of 1810, calling the people to fight against the colonial government of Spain, is considered the beginning of Mexico’s independence, which is not Cinco de Mayo.We often remember the role that men played in the events that changed the course of history, and Mexican Independence is not an exception. With El Grito, we talk about Miguel Hidalgo’s speech, but women such as Leona Vicario and Josefa Ortiz also played mayor roles in the liberation of their country, and it’s worth writing their names in this context.The festivities as we know them today started in the 20th Century to stimulate a national feeling amongst Mexican people. To the more formal, institutional part of El Grito, a social, party aspect was added with folkloric performances, music, and of course, food and drink to go with it. According to this article from the National Autonomous University of Mexico, El Grito takes after “the celebration of the taking of the Bastille in France or the commemoration of 4th of July in the United States.”So if you feel the calling to celebrate this Mexican milestone, we have rounded up some events where you can immerse yourself in the community, culture, colors, tunes, and flavors of the party.

Las Fiestas Patrias Latinas

Oceanside

For those who want to celebrate early, Mission San Luis Rey Parish will have an event Sunday, September 10, 2023 from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. at the parish front lawn 4070 Mission Ave, Oceanside. Featuring live music, folk dances, and Mexican food for sale, the organizers are inviting attendees to wear their typical Mexican folkloric attire for the occasion.

El Grito de México

Little Italy

The Mexican Consulate in San Diego is teaming up with Univision San Diego, La Invasora 99.7 and Pulsar 107.3 to bring El Grito to India Street (in front of the consulate) to celebrate this day. On Friday, Sep 15, 2023 from 5 p.m. – 9 p.m., there will be music—including a tribute show to Luis Miguel aka El Sol de México—folkloric dancing, mariachi, and banda (a genre of regional Mexican music). The food vendors include Casa Ocho, Hija Del Maiz, El Rey Tacos Al Vapor, My Pozole, Birria Kings, Mariscos Tone Camarón, and Cocina de Tamales.

Grito de Independencia

Tijuana

On Friday September 15, Mexico locals can gather to commemorate their independence at the arch in Avenida Revolución in TJ. Starting in the afternoon there will be antojitos (Mexican street food), games, local artists, folkloric dances, and music by Pancho Barraza at 7 p.m. The party will culminate at 11 p.m. with the civic ceremony and the ringing of the bell.

SD Chinelos Fest

Emerald Hills

The inaugural Chinelos Music and Dance Festival will take place Saturday, September 16 from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. at Gompers Park. This free festival will celebrate the rich cultural heritage of Mexico with music and dance performances, food and drinks from local vendors, and a variety of interactive activities for all ages. All proceeds from sales will go to support local organizations that work to improve the lives of underprivileged communities in San Diego. 

El Grito

Chula Vista

A free, family friendly event, El Grito will take place at Memorial Park/Bowl on Saturday, September 16 from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. and will feature food and entertainment (folkloric ballet and mariachi).

Fiestas Patrias

Old Town

One of the most well-known places to celebrate Mexican Independence (or anything Mexican, really!) is Old Town, and the historic park won’t disappoint with its annual Fiestas Patrias on Sunday, September 17, starting with the ringing of the bell at the historic Casa de Estudillo. This event features a parade that will include the escaramuzas (traditional women equestrians), and a variety of entertainment, with music and dance groups, crafts, games and informational demonstrations that represent the activities enjoyed by the early settlers in San Diego in the 1800s.

Fiestas Patrias Festival

Escondido

On Sunday, September 17 from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. at Grape Day Park in Escondido, the Fiestas Patrias Festival will celebrate Mexican culture and heritage with delicious food, vibrant music, and a marketplace filled with unique crafts.

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Best Things to Do in Baja Right Now, According to Local Experts https://staging.sandiegomagazine.com/food-drink/best-things-to-do-in-baja-right-now-according-to-local-experts/ Wed, 23 Aug 2023 03:15:00 +0000 https://staging.sdmag-courtavenuelatam.com/uncategorized/best-things-to-do-in-baja-right-now-according-to-local-experts/ The region's tastemakers weigh in on the best new, trendy, and noteworthy spots across the border

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Splash Rosarito Baja California Restaurant Mexico

Splash Rosarito Baja California Restaurant Mexico

Courtesy of Splash Baja Restaurant

We all have that friend who was there first, who knows the spots before the influencers, before the Michelin Guide furtively dines, who lives like locals do, and seem to make friends at each coveted location.You annoyingly see a gorgeously arranged plate sans filter on Instagram at a restaurant that doesn’t even have a geotag. Then, a story from a hotel with views that aren’t out-of-this-world in another country—like say, Mexico.With so many exciting new things coming out of Baja these days, we looked to those people—the region’s tastemakers, local experts, and even a few of our San Diego friends—to give us the inside scoop on new, noteworthy, trendy, or hidden gems across the border.Here are 12 places to go in Baja right now as recommended by Monica Arreola, co-owner of Arte Contemporaneo in TJ; Dang Nguyen, consultant for Coyote Projects hospitality group in Baja; Hank Morton (founder and president) and Geoff Hill (director of brand & marketing) of Baja Bound; and our friends at the tourism authority on the latest developments.

Where to Go in Tijuana


Nook Hotel Tijuana Baja California Mexico

Nook Hotel Tijuana Baja California Mexico

Courtesy of Nook Hotel

Nook Hotel

A block away from the much-more famous—though slightly dustier—Caesar’s Hotel, is this boutique gem. With pastel, Mondrian-like paintings hung over their gallery walls and chic, nouveau furnishings throughout, it gives more Downtown L.A. than Zona Central. It’s also open 24 hours for your carousing convenience.

Midnight Cowboy

Less Jon Voight, more Juan Voight. This caballero-inspired border saloon is so new, you won’t even be able to find the address without a DM. Reach out for a reservation, snag the code, and find yourself in a glow-up version of every ranch hand’s dream home (on the range), with marble countertops, ornamental horseshoes, and leather coasters. Try tipples like the Desperado, a concoction of agave spirits, Benedictine, and Fernet Branca.

Casa Tijuana Restaurant Baja California Mexico

Casa Tijuana Restaurant Baja California Mexico

Courtesy of Casa Tijuana

Casa Tijuana 

Don’t have friends in Tijuana who can invite you over for a home-cooked meal? Think again. Chef Juan Cabrera Barrón would like to welcome you into his. Enter Casa Tijuana, a restaurant in an actual house, in a thriving neighborhood on the outskirts of town, where the dining room is every room. Bedecked with personal effects from Barrón’s own life, the cozy, abuelita décor style belies the food’s modern edge. Labeling itself as Mexican comfort food, this local eatery has a bite to satisfy every palette. Pro Tip: Work up an appetite perusing local, modern artists’ work at 206 Arte Contemporaneo then take a five-minute drive here to dish on all your favorite pieces—and dishes.

Where to Go in Rosarito


Splash Baja California Rosarito Restaurant Mexico

Splash Baja California Rosarito Restaurant Mexico

Courtesy of Splash Baja Restaurant

Splash

Seemingly carved out of the cliffs, this old casita-turned-restaurant is a classic spot to post up on your way to Valle, or before hitting traffic on the way back home. Though erring a little toward the Americanized palate, “El Cielito Lindo” is on heavy mariachi rotation for some traditional fun and their margaritas don’t disappoint.

Marea Alta

Winner of 2023’s “Best Seafood Restaurant” from Galardón Gastronómica, this unassuming Puerto Nuevo eatery highlights the region’s freshest seafood with modern techniques, plus all the al fresco, the-UV-index-is-peaking-but-that’s-what-sunscreen-is-for, summer vibes.

Colectivo Surf Tasting Room

K41 (also known as the Mexican mile marker, Kilometer 41) is the X marking the spot for finding some of the region’s best sushi alongside a much-need, post-surf sesh brew in Playas de Rosarito. A restaurant focusing on fresh catches from its shores and four in-house brands under the collective: Cerveza Surf, Colectivo Sagrado Mezcal, Amor del Mar Vino, and Kaffiso 100 percent Café Orgánico.

Where to Go in Valle de Guadalupe


Bloodlust Restaurant Valle de Guadalupe Baja California Mexico

Bloodlust Restaurant Valle de Guadalupe Baja California Mexico

Courtesy of Bloodlust

Bloodlust

Mimetic architecture never tasted so good. Shaped like an entire bulb of ajo (garlic), this wine and vermouth bar specializes in natural wine and sophisticated plates without the pretense of some other Valle notables. Be sure to check their ‘gram so you can coordinate your visit with a live band playing in their amphitheater or a vinyl selector manning the decks indoors for a meal fit for an audiophile.

Decantos Vinicola

Villa vibes with Mexican cultura and terroir. Celebrating eight years this summer, winemaker Alonso Granados has kept his vision alive with constant innovation. Geoff explains some of the ingenuity behind Granados’ winemaking, “Everything is gravity fed. There’s no pumps because they don’t want it to disturb the molecular structure.” As the son of the artist Gina Romo, creativity is in his blood. After learning winemaking in Spain, he took his vision to the sprawling landscape of Valle de Guadalupe and prepared to conquer Mexico’s wine market. With 20,000 cases sold per year—running the gamut from refreshing “joven” wines and dessert options like a tokaji—he’s on track to keeping his top spot.

Where to Go in Ensenada


Cerveceria Transpeninsular Ensenada Baja California Mexico

Cerveceria Transpeninsular Ensenada Baja California Mexico

Courtesy of Cerveceria Transpeninsular

Cerveceria Transpeninsular

Though Valle can lean adult with its 21+ restrictions, there are many places that are kid friendly, where you can still partake in local microbrews. Since 2016, Cerveceria Transpenisular has been that spot. Each beer is named for a local point of interest alongside the winding roadways of this Baja region, like the Km 5.5 milk stout and the La Curva double IPA. So, grab a pint while the pint-sized ones run amok.

La Morocha

Ensenada’s favorite culinary son and Fauna chef, David Castro Hussong, is back with another concept. This time he’s settled in the winery of Santo Tomás in Ensenada with his bar and restaurant that’s named after slang for a pretty Latina, La Morocha. Their Instagram and website are taunting us with lack of details but they say they’re warming the pans as we salivate and expect an August open. We do know this, on July 29, they had a pop-up for the anniversary at Decantos Vinicola, which featured a dish of Wagyu rib flautas with truffle potato. So, don’t mind us, we’ll just sit here hitting refresh on our browser until we finally can make a reservation…

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Muelle Tres

Pierside dining? Yes, please. This excellent seafood outpost was featured in last year’s Valle Food & Wine Festival for good reason. Try the featured dish, Marisquite, a mashup of elote, octopus, and shrimp. Street corn never had it so good. 

La Bête Noir

This self-proclaimed “hi fi-gastro” in Zona Centro wants you to be aware that it is not a club. There are no memberships and no reservations, which keeps space for all to hear the sounds and take in the culinary morsels this Ensenada pseudo-speakeasy provides. Repping McIntosh speaker gear, the sounds will be as smooth as cocktail creator Alexandra Purcaru’s cardamom-infused gin and tonic, known as “La Bete Gin.”

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The Luxury of Escapism https://staging.sandiegomagazine.com/things-to-do/garza-blanca-cancun-review/ Thu, 20 Jul 2023 21:52:00 +0000 https://staging.sdmag-courtavenuelatam.com/uncategorized/the-luxury-of-escapism/ Lavish weddings, surprise bottles of tequila and just a touch of imposter syndrome at the five-star Garza Blanca Cancun

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Garza Blanca Cancun, aerial

Courtesy of Garza Blanca Cancun

As I enter the lobby, a life-sized stand-up banner showcases a couple in love, welcoming guests to their wedding weekend. The hotel is buzzing with the sounds of their guests checking in. Each is presented with a small white gift bag before heading up to their room.The celebration, hosted by Shaadi Destinations (an Indian destination wedding agency), is a four-day ceremony at the five-star Garza Blanca Cancun along Costa Mujeres. The young couple is empirically attractive. I’m at once curious about who they are.

Custom banners, flowers, bright colors, gold trimmings, all the bells, all the whistles, all scattered throughout the lobby—this is their resort, and I’m a wedding crasher.

Garza Blanca Cancun, lobby

Garza Blanca Cancun, lobby

Courtesy of Garza Blanca Cancun

I don’t belong here. I hide my face under a worn-out ball cap as a guest in Chanel sunglasses grabs her welcome gift next to me. In a past life, I wrote solely about luxury travel as my day job. I know this world well, but I still feel like an outsider.

Once, while in Acapulco, I was told Justin Bieber and his team had stayed at the property in a villa similar to mine. I’m just like him. I still use that fun fact when talking about the hotel.

Garza smells like a high-end hotel—a common tactic used in many upscale destinations to evoke feelings of fun, romance, or relaxation. It works, I’m already talking differently inside these walls.

Garza Blanca Cancun, pool

Garza Blanca Cancun, pool

Courtesy of Garza Blanca Cancun

Inside the decked-out gold lobby with large chandeliers, marble flooring, and air-vent-pumped scents, I’m quickly reminded that this isn’t your typical Cancun all-inclusive (no one is asking how to get to Señor Frogs). In front, large doors open up to a collection of pools, overwater hammocks, and al fresco bars. There’s a very South Beach feel to the all-white hotel.

The Mexican-owned property is part of the Tafer Hotel portfolio and officially opened in 2022, but it wasn’t until this year that its full list of amenities were completed including a new rooftop infinity pool, more restaurants, and a massive spa.

I scoot past the wedding party, politely excusing myself for ruining their aesthetic, and head to my suite. I’m here to write about the hotel after spending a few days on my own exploring the area. Costa Mujeres is said to be “the new Cancun,” quickly becoming the go-to for travelers who have moved on from the crowded party streets of Cancun.

Garza Blanca Cancun, one bedroom

Garza Blanca Cancun, one bedroom

Courtesy of Garza Blanca Cancun

With a full kitchen, dining and living rooms, two bathrooms, patio with a hammock, and a large bedroom, it’s the washer and dryer that I’m immediately excited about. I’m here to use my years in the industry to tell others about the property’s highs and lows, but all I can think about is giving my clothes a bath.

The next afternoon, I make my way over to the main pool (one of four) overlooking the resort’s private beach that it shares with sister property Villa del Palmar. Guests of Garza have access to both properties including their food and beverage venues (though Villa guests aren’t afforded the same access back).

I’m staring out at the jet ski rentals and children playing on the water jungle gym as THE COUPLE, the one from the banner, walks by. They’re dressed in beautiful traditional Indian garments. I can’t help but watch as their entourage circles around them, all wearing the same fedoras. Another gift.

Garza Blanca Cancun, beach

Garza Blanca Cancun, beach

Courtesy of Garza Blanca Cancun

As the sun sets, the couple’s beach cocktail reception gets underway, and I retreat to my room. Three complimentary full-sized bottles of tequila welcome me back. I wonder if they mistook me for a wedding guest and take a shot either way. (I later learn that the hotel enjoys dropping off special amenities from time to time for notable guests or celebrations).

Seven bars and restaurants are scattered around the property, each with its own ability to be a standalone joint outside of the resort. Having spent time at some of the brand’s other properties (Puerto Vallarta, Los Cabos), I already know how much thought goes into the food here. It’s not an aside like you’d find at many all-inclusive hotels. I try just about all of them to be sure.

Garza Blanca Cancun, Dao

Garza Blanca Cancun, Dao

Courtesy of Garza Blanca Cancun

At Dao, the hotel’s newer rooftop Chinese restaurant, the wedding party sits to the right of me. We’re eating the same dishes, sitting under the same lights, tipping the same servers. Maybe we aren’t so different after all. Maybe that’s the whole point of Garza Blanca—offering the luxury of escape. Some are wealthy enough to afford it, and some are travel writers.

Here, there’s not that stuffy, country-club vibe that can make you feel like an imposter. It’s the type of place where a straight-out-of-a-movie couple and their wedding party can coexist alongside someone like me, a writer on assignment wondering how many tiny bath products I can fit in my carry-on.

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